Real People: Spring Scarves and Patterns
Where I live, in the Washington, D.C. area, we’ve already had 4 days of 90 degree heat, so I’m envious of people like C. in the Netherlands who can wear light scarves late into spring and even summer. I’m also envious of C.’s scarf itself in these photos, in a simple brown and cream patterned linen that complements the tone of his trousers and the blue of his shirt. When tied, it occupies the space that otherwise might be covered by a tie, and a scarf like C.’s can be a good casual tie alternative without going full ascot.
C. also submitted this as one of the more subtle entries in the recent Styleforum four-pattern challenge. Really, only the scarf is boldly patterned; otherwise, it’s a variation on a look most men return to over and over: navy sportcoat, blue shirt, and light colored cotton pants. Adding subtle patterns and the texture of looser weave linen refines the combination.
Finally, beyond patterns, C. has truly mastered the “walking toward the camera selfie.” Many bloggers (me included) have used up their camera phone’s storage space with poorly timed attempts at this level of on-camera nonchalance.
Blue Linen Suit by B&Tailor
Too cool for blue.
Suitsupply Soho jacket, Suitsupply linen trousers, Berg & Berg tie and ps, Oliver Peoples O’Malley sunglasses.
Simon Spurr | Milk Studios, NYC.
What Is Balance?
If you’ve ever participated in online forums about classic men’s clothing, you may have come across people talking about a jacket’s “balance.” But what is balance? Sometimes, it’s a nebulous concept - just a way of someone saying whether they think a jacket looks off or not. Most of the time, however, it refers to something very specific: how a jacket hangs from the shoulders.
To understand this, you have to remember that a jacket takes on the shape of our bodies, so our unique contours and posture will affect how it fits. Which is why if you take two men with the same chest size, the same jacket can look very different on each of them.
There are two aspects to a jacket’s balance. The first is how the front and back lengths relate to each other. Very simply, if you look at a man from his side, the front hem of his jacket should be either roughly even with his back, or it can be slightly longer. The back, generally speaking, should never be longer than the front. If it is, you may see the quarters of the coat (the area of the front below the buttoning point) hike up and possibly “swing inward.”
This can happen for a number of reasons. One might be that the person stands too erect, so the back essentially “dips down” while the front “hikes up.” It may also be that the person has a very large stomach, so the front of the jacket doesn’t have enough material to cover that area without disturbing how the jacket hangs.
The opposite of this is also possible. Someone might have prominent shoulder blades or stand with a stoop. In this case, he’ll need a bit more length in the back and less in the front. Otherwise, the quarters of his jacket might fall away towards his hips and the vents at the back might gape.
The second aspect of balance refers to how the left and right sides of a jacket relate to each other. Similarly, these should also be aligned. This might seem like it should occur naturally, but certain things can complicate it. If your right shoulder is considerably lower than your left (which is very common, by the way), you’ll notice that everything on the right side of your jacket will also be dropped accordingly.
Fixing this isn’t as easy as just adding length to the right side or taking away some on the left, however. It’s not just the hem that’s affected, it’s everything on the right – the way the left and right pockets align with each other, the notches on your lapels, as well as the buttons and buttonholes. A tailor can fix this for you, but it helps to know what to look for in order to assess whether a jacket fits you correctly.
All this can seem confusing and complicated if you’ve never thought about these concepts. In the end, however, you can simply think of it like this: if someone were to view you from the side, the front and back of your jacket should be even, or the front can be slightly longer than the back. You can examine this by seeing how the hem aligns. Similarly, when viewed from the front, the left and right sides of your jacket’s hem should be roughly even as well. If they’re not, it can be said that your jacket’s balance is off.
(Photo via Voxsartoria)
Half a suit = sport coat
White trousers definitely means summer to me and since we have had a few sweltering (by Northern Scandinavian standards) days here I decided to break out my white trousers. I am a sucker for the combination of white and navy, so I paired them with a navy blazer (although the blazer has been hanging on the back of my chair for most of the day).
WIWT May 29, 2013